By far the most frequent questions I get from people who are thinking about trying out the new furniture paints (chalk paint, milk paint, plaster paint) are regarding paste furniture wax.
They typically go something like this:
“Why do I have to use the wax?”
“Can I use something else as a topcoat?”
“What type of furniture wax is the best?”
“How do I put it on?”
“Will it be durable?”
So in an effort clear up some of the wax confusion out there, here is my Wax 101 post.
Furniture Paste Wax is not a new invention, but the popularity of chalk and milk paints have brought it to the forefront of the DIY furniture-painting world.
Why is that? Well, chalk and milk paint are flat-finish, porous paints. They thus require a topcoat of some kind to seal them and upgrade their finish to a more matte or satin appearance. Polyurethane has been the unofficial standard topcoat for many, many years, but it can be difficult to work with and may yellow over time (especially over light colors). It also chips off in large pieces (since it basically a dried piece of plastic laying on top of your paint), and so is harder to touch up.
Paste wax is then the marketed option for most chalk and milk paint projects. And while it produces a very different finish than poly, it’s a good option. There are ups and downs to wax though too, which I’ll talk about more.
Ultimately, the reason furniture wax is sold as the topcoat of choice for wax and milk paints is that, unlike poly, it will settle down into the porous paint finish and cure up over time. When scratched, it won’t flake off in big chunks like poly because in essence, it “becomes” part of the paint’s finish.
Is everybody following me so far?
Different Wax Brands?
Many brands of paste wax exist, from stuff you can buy at Home Depot to more “boutique” waxes sold with chalk and milk paint lines. From my personal experience, the main difference in the varying brands is in how environmentally-friendly their ingredients are and their softness or consistency.
Over these past 2 years, I have tried many different waxes and used many different waxing techniques. I know what I like and what I don’t like, what seems to generally work and what most often doesn’t.
In an effort to cut down on cost, I tried the lesser expensive hardware store brands, but was disappointed with them overall. In general, they were a lot harder to work with and had a very strong odor. For me, it’s worth it to pay a bit more for a brand that is easier to apply and that doesn’t have a strong toxic odor, so I tend to use the boutique paint brands for that reason.
How Do You Apply It?
Every painter has their own method of applying wax, and I believe really it comes down to preference. When I have a large piece to work with, I will brush my wax on with a wax brush because it is quicker. In smaller areas I often apply wax with an old t-shirt (light color shirt for light color paints, and vice versa). Both techniques have worked well for me.
Wax brushes are marketed and sold along with many boutique waxes, like these I have in my online shop:
I do love a good wax brush! But I’m the first to admit that they can be a bit expensive, especially if you only paint furniture every so often. If you aren’t ready to invest in a nice wax brush, you can use inexpensive chip brushes from the hardware store, just watch out for bristles coming out and sticking onto your finish.
The one time where a brush really does work better than a rag is when you are trying to apply wax into detail areas or areas with trim . The brush can push the wax into the cracks and crevices much better than a rag can.
After your wax is applied, allow it to dry according to the particular wax’s instructions, then if you choose you can buff it with a soft cloth to add more shine. Note, buffing is not the easiest task! It takes some real elbow grease, and don’t expect to create a deep shine like on factory-finished furniture.
Is it Durable?
Yes, I have found wax to provide a durable finish, but quite different from the durability a poly provides. What I like about wax is that it if you do scratch a small space, often a little more wax will fix the problem, or some small touch up paint to the spot. It’s harder to repair a scratched poly-coated spot–usually the whole area has to be sanded down, repainted, and a new layer of poly reapplied.
The problem I have found with wax’s durability is that the finished surface stays “soft” . . . meaning that the scrape of a fingernail or sliding an object across the surface will leave a mark in the wax that shows up in the sunlight. Wax is not going to produce the hard, glossy finish that poly will, so while the paint itself doesn’t scratch, the wax does.
This has been an issue for several of my clients, mainly because it’s not what they expect from a protective finish. If you want a perfect, spotless, hard finish–like the finish of manufactured painted furniture–then you should consider using a hard finish like a poly or varnish instead.
What About the Dark Wax?
Using a dark wax or antiquing wax product to add depth to a finish is a wonderful technique! If you want a full, step-by-step tutorial on how to use dark wax, you can check out this in-depth blog post I wrote on that exact topic.
I have found best way to achieve an authentic antiqued look with dark wax is to mix it with clear wax, brush on, then wipe off the excess. Go back with a brush and push a little additional dark wax into the corners and cracks of the furniture, to mimic the look of “dirt” collected over the years.
One can of dark wax will last you forever! It only takes a very little bit to make a big difference, so use it sparingly.
Do I Like Using Wax?
(update April 2015, I now use Fusion Mineral Paint in place of chalk paint and find it produces excellent results for a more affordable price, and it requires no wax…yes ,you heard me…no waxing required)
The answer is overall yes!
I find poly difficult to work with, so wax is typically my preferred option for a topcoat over chalk and milk paints. The more I use it, the more comfortable I get with it.
I really like the aged effect dark wax can give, and I like that a wax topcoat will not yellow or chip off in pieces like poly will.
BUT, paste wax has also ruined or almost ruined several projects of mine. I have found that it does not pair well with dark paint colors, as it tends to settle in the cracks and get streaky and cloudy.
The only way to solve that problem is to buff like crazy . . . but even with the strongest arms it sometimes doesn’t clear up. In the case of this black headboard above I had to repaint the whole piece and use poly as the topcoat instead.
My go-to solution for wax over dark colors is to now use Hemp Oil instead. It works perfectly over dark colors and won’t give you that cloudy look at all!
I also do not care for the sticky feeling that can sometimes linger with a wax finish, especially if you apply too much. Some products seem to cure up much better than others, with my current favorites being Fusion Mineral Paint’s Beeswax Finish and MMS Milk Paint’s Waxes.
In all honesty, I believe that most people tolerate wax because they love chalk and milk paint so much! It’s a good product, but it has its drawbacks, just like polyurethane. It really comes down to what you’re comfortable working with, and what final look you are trying to create.
I hope this has answered some of your wax questions and cleared up some of the confusion about how to use the product. Please feel free to ask any other questions you may have in the comments, or email me. I share from my own experience and do not claim to know everything about every wax product, so I expect that others out there may have differing opinions. Thank you for letting me share mine 🙂
Linking up to: Project Inspired, Wow Us Wednesdays, SITS Sharefest
Melanie, I really appreciate your insight and candor. You know I only dabble in furniture painting, so thank you for sharing your vast knowledge.
I used the Minwax paste on the top of a mahogany buffet that I had lightly sanded. I was really happy with the results. I felt that it did give the piece a hard, poly-type finish.
You didn’t indicate if you had a favorite wax, if cost was not an issue. I’d love to know what you like best for economics and what gives the best finish.
Also, have you written a piece on your favorite paint that isn’t milk or chalk?
Thanks so much for linking up with us at Project Inspire{d}!
Blessings!
Thank you Diane! I am glad you had good results with the Mixwax paste wax on your table. I have waxed stained dresser tops before and they have turned out beautifully . . . but I did have my one stained tabletop almost ruined by wax, so I still can’t give it an A+. As far as my personal preferences, my favorite “boutique” wax is the Paste Wax by the Plaster Paint Co. I have determined that I do not like the Annie Sloan Soft Clear Wax much at all. Lately, I have been using Fiddles and Sons Wax, which is about $10 cheaper, and does as good of a job as the higher priced brands, but does smell awfully chemical-y (if you know what I mean!). I actually am SUPER excited about a brand new furniture paint I have found called Fusion Paint that is a 100% acrylic paint and doesn’t need any topcoat at all. I just received a test kit in the mail today and plan on trying it out this week, in hopes of possibly being able to retail it through my site and shop. We’ll see how it works!
Melanie,
Totally terrific tutorial….pinning this bad boy right now. Don’t think I will ever have another wax question. Well done.
Suz
Thank you Susie! I’m sure I left out plenty of things, but it was about as exhaustive of a post as I could manage. Glad you found it helpful.
Well–just a thought. I have used a buffing attachment and used them in a drill to buff larger and more difficult jobs. As long as you have a variable speed drill on low or a cordless drill you can do a good job. No need to press hard on the finish. You can also use a low speed auto buffer for the larger flat surfaces. Again–no need to press hard, just let the buffer do it all.
Ed, I do have a powered buffer–not the type that attaches to my drill, but a stand-alone one. It does work well on typical wax jobs, but even the powered buffer was not able to save my black bed 🙁 I do like using it though on jobs where the wax is behaving itself, as it does make the job of adding some shine much simpler. Thanks for your thoughts!
How about a cream beeswax type wax for that type of surface instead of the harder solid type of wax. I use that from time to time and can get it out of most areas once applied.
Some waxes are creamier than others Ed, you are right. I have had the same issue with many different types though–but it’s always worth trying out a new method. Thanks for your thought.
I had the same issue with wax on black or really dark colors, until I figured out I needed to use a dark wax on them, and a dark rag to buff. Not ASCP dark it will change the color but the MinWax dark. Works out great now.
Good info, thanks Traci. I haven’t tried the Minwax dark, but now know I need to!
Hello! What dark wax did you use on the robin’s egg blue piece shown above (in the Dark Wax section)? HOLY MOLY, that is the most beautiful, realistic, old-european aged “fake” piece I have EVER seen. I’m super picky about stuff looking genuinely old, and you NAILED it!
You will get a VERY hard finish if you use a high-carnauba content wax which can often be found in the automotive department. It’s harder to apply, but warming in over hot water first helps. I often use a shoe buffer to buff out my wax finishes and it’s almost necessary with the hard past wax such as carnauba.. You can also tint the clear wax with oil paints and that works very well over dark paint and finishes. If you plan to re-paint with anything other than chalk or milk paint you must remove the wax finish first or it acts as a resist.
I have not ever tried a wax with a high carnauba content, thanks for the tip! And I like the idea about tinting the clear wax darker to avoid the cloudy problem. Thanks Teresa 🙂
Hi Melanie! Thanks for posting this very informative post on different waxes. I saw it over at “Savvy Southern Style” blog party.
You’re welcome! Thanks for stopping by.
Very helpful. I have had to reapply wax to my Annie Sloan painted table. My elbows keep turning red. I am planning a new paint job so really appreciate you sharing your experience with the wax products.
Thank you Linda. Did you happen to see my most recent post about Fusion Mineral Paint? It’s a no-wax 100% acrylic furniture paint . . . I have loved working with it so far, you may want to give it a try too.
I like the wax idea but tend to go for a shiney look. And since my husband does for sure and I am trying to bring him into the ref-finishing fold/coven, I will have to keep using a poly till he comes around. But here is my question, if I use wax on a say table top, and dont like it and want to change to poly, do I have to re-sand to get the wax off and remove both the way & paint BEFORE I can poly coat it? Meaning I would have to re-paint it?
Would wax go on different if I was using a latex paint?
Thanks
Barbara Ann
etsy.com/shop/barbaraannscreations
Quick answer to your questions . . . yes, and yes. You would need to get the wax off before you applied the poly. And wax does work differently with latex paint because latex isn’t porous so the wax stays on the surface instead of settling down into the chalk or milk paint.
Thanks. I appreciate your tips.
Just use mineral spirits to remove the wax. Ammonia also works, but it’s terrible to use and can darken natural wood. Shellac will also seal it, but then you need to use a real varnish to cover. However, that’s the most beautiful finish.
I LOVE the look of wax on top of chalk paint. It deepens the color and it looks so nice. Here’s the question that drives me crazy. When you are painting the inside of a cabinet of some sort, what do you use to protect the painted surface on the inside? Assuming things will be being put inside and taken out, would you use poly to protect the inside but use wax on the outside? Or would waxing on the inside be sufficient protection?
Thank you for the waxing tips. I have just completed painting a piece of furniture and I took out my wax to read the label. I noticed that the Minwax Paste Finishing Wax I purchased says “natural” on the label, with a tan color behind it. I don’t see on any sites about wax this same label. Do you know anything about the “natural?” Will it turn my piece of furniture tan?
Hi Lauren. Unfortunately, I don’t know anything about that “natural” label either. My best guess is that it is referring to the ingredients.
It refers to the colour: natural. It’s the general “go-to” colourless wax. If you have a dark stain, a wood with large pores than you don’t wish to emphasize, then choose the dark shade as “natural” will show light. This can be used as a decoratively, it just depends what your goal in waxing is. My Mom used this to wax her furniture.
Melanie,
I just recently painted an old high boy dresser with RustOleum linen whit chalk paint for a project. This is my first up cycle project and I am unsure if I should use miniwax finishing paste wax or try a clear polycrylic. Everything I have read, I am worried about either product yellowing over the white paint. Do you have any suggestions?
Sammy, I agree that you need to seal the chalk paint with something, and a wax is probably your easiest option. I have not personally worked with the mixwax paste wax, so I can’t speak to if it yellows or not. Do you have a boutique paint retailer in your area? The Plaster Paint Co sells a paste wax that is wonderful, and the Miss Mustard Seed Wax and well as the Fusion Wax Finish I sell are both fantastic too. Another option is Briwax, which probably might be available in your local hardware store or woodworking store, and if not, easily purchased on Amazon. If you want to try out another piece and not worry about having to seal it, you should check out Fusion Mineral Paint–needs to topcoat or sealing bc it’s acrylic based. Good luck with your project!
I have been painting for over 30 years. So picking up a road-side rescue or a thrift find has been routine. However, I still turn to the experts before completing a project with something new. You are certainly an expert! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I went on to read four more of your articles. I had heard a lot about the wax, but now I do not believe it will be the best for my project. I am up-cycling a couple of the 1980’s style country shelves and painting them in black. I will distress the edges. The pegs are not the look I want, so cute Scottie dog knobs with replace the pegs on one and I have a couple of complimentary decorative knobs for the other shelf. I plan to update the cut-out hearts with a French Script words on cream behind the spaces. These are not a make-em-perfect sort of project, but utility for my new office space. I think the waxing on the uneven surfaces and corners would have been a disaster. I did not consider the poly, although I just used it on another redo. Thanks again for the tips.
I’ve been reading several blogs and reviews on chalk painting and what works better was it poly… this is helpful, although I’m still undecided on what to use for my dining room cabinet… I would love to send you a photo of the piece I want to refinish.
Please feel free Alicia! I will do my best to offer any insight I may have.
Sorry the above comment should read, I’m undecided on wax or poly for topcoat over black chalk paint.
This is exactly the info I was seeking! Thank you! 🙂